Day 28 - Vega de Valcarce to Alto do Poio - 22km

From Vega de Valcarce to O'Cebreiro it is uphill all the way, climbing 700m in 12km. There is a choice of road or track, the former being recommended in wet misty weather and the one I chose because it was precisely that. I set off at about 8 after coffee and biscuits and although the road was steep I made good going. I think by now my legs were pretty fit and going uphill however steeply at a steady pace was no longer so difficult. The road climbed through dripping woods and I caught occasional glimpses of beautiful scenery whenever the mist lifted. It was quite frustrating not to be able to see the view properly. At the back of my mind was a newspaper report I had read some months previously about a full-grown bear that was hit and killed around here by a car. The tune to ''Teddybear's Picnic'' kept running through my mind and I hoped there weren't any about.

The rain continued and because of my exertions I was perspiring so much that my poncho was wet inside and and out, a rather uncomfortable sensation. I stopped in Herrerías for a second coffee break and when I left to continue on the road an old lady stuck her head out of a window and was most insistent that I was going the wrong way and kept pointing up the track. She was getting so upset that I weakly gave in and followed her pointing finger. Underfoot it was now muddy, rocky and very hard going so I was thankful to stop again at another village for a tonic water, unable to face yet another coffee. This place was rather unfriendly as I got shouted at for thoughtlessly coming in still wearing my poncho and was chased by a mop-wielding woman. Galicia is known for its rain so they should have been used to wet pilgrims in that bar, a place to hang wet waterproofs outside would have been useful.

Further on I reached the boundary marker showing that I was entering Galicia. I was hungry by now but the track wound round the mountainside through fields with dripping hedges and there was nowhere to sit, so I stood and ate a sandwich in the rain by the side of the path. A group of elderly tourists were shepherded past me at this point by their two guides. One of the guides told me they were on a day trip and that the clients were dropped off from their coach at different distances along the way according to their walking abilities. A nice idea but a bit amusing to someone who had just walked over 600km...

I reached the top, at the village of O'Cebreiro, shortly after. It looked a small, picturesque spot with little stone cottages, restaurants and shops, rather like the Lake District . Also, like the Lake District in high season, it was heaving with day trippers and school parties wandering around in the perpetual drizzle. I sheltered on a stone wall by the church and ate some cherries (I do like them!) then decided to leave without looking around. I was feeling cold and damp by then as well as tired after the long hard climb and it was another 5.5km to the albergue I was aiming for.

The problem was finding my way out of the village. According to my map the route now followed a road, and there were yellow arrows pointing in this direction. At the same time there were also yellow arrows pointing up a track. The whole situation was not helped by the thick mist which now descended, accompanied by wind and continuing drizzle. A couple set off up the track and a lone pilgrim set off down the road, his waterproof snapping smartly in the wind. I decided to go for the road, which was actually more of a highway, but thankfully with very little traffic. The pilgrim ahead of me disappeared very quickly in the mist and after a couple of kilometres downhill I was having serious doubts about whether I was on the right road. I debated going back to O'Cebreiro but couldn't face the long steep hill back up. The mist was still thick despite the wind and visibility was poor, so I hadn't a clue where I was but I decided to keep going.

Thankfully after another kilometre or so I reached Liñares and realised I was on the right road after all, which was an enormous relief. The road climbed after this and I passed a well known and much photographed pilgrim monument which I couldn't see properly because of the mist, so I didn't pause but just carried on, by now on a very muddy track through some woods. When I finally reached Hospital de la Condessa it was a real blow to be told the albergue was closed due to building works. The next one was over 3km away, up a steep hill. I ignored signs showing an off-road track and kept plodding along up the never-ending slope until I finally reached Alto do Poio Pousada. It wasn't an albergue but as well as rooms there was a dorm with some bunk beds in the attic. The arrangements were rather makeshift and there was only one grubby shower/toilet for all but at this point in the proceedings I would have taken anything. They charged 18 euros but this did include an evening meal. My trainers were wet and muddy, my clothes were damp, my rucksack was damp, even my map was damp. I took my trainers off and crawled into my bunk damp clothes and all, pulled up a heavy blanket and was dead to the world for a couple of hours. Dinner was very good, by the way.