Day 24 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino - 24km

I left before 7 in the morning, passing the famous Gaudi building on my way out of Astorga. Initially the way was level and excellent underfoot and I stopped a couple of times for coffee breaks as I went along. It was windy and rather cold but hot in the sun when it came out. The path ran between a lovely long stretch of bushes covered in yellow flowers (Broom? Gorse?) and where there was no place to paint arrows some had been outlined on the path with stones. Eventually the route drew away more from the road and then became hilly and full of tree roots underfoot which made it very tiring as I had to walk looking down all the time in order not to trip.

It was tempting to join the nearby road again instead of scrambling up down the path through the woods, but I couldn't be sure the Camino wouldn't branch off somewhere, and also the road was rather narrow and full of dips, not pedestrian-friendly. So I persevered and stuck to the proper path which now had a wire fence running alongside for a very long way. Interwoven in the fence were crosses made of twigs, a pilgrim custom, and I added one of my own to the collection.

Since I'd had a bad night I was tired by the time I reached Rabanal at 1 in the afternoon. I wanted to stay at the albergue run by the English Confraternity of St James which unfortunately didn't open until 2. There was a notice pinned to the door saying there were only 28 beds available, but after a quick count of the pilgrims queuing up I joined them as there were only around 20 so far. It was unfortunate that at this point a very cold wind got up and it started to rain. A few lucky ones were able to shelter near the door but the rest of us and our rucksacks were left exposed to the elements.

Despite the inclement weather the doors did not open until just after 2 which I thought was unnecessarily ''sticking to the rules'' as there was a spacious porch which could have accommodated us all out of the rain even if they weren't ready to admit us to the albergue. When we were being admitted they had a long chat with each pilgrim while signing them in so that it took nearly an hour for the 28 beds to be allocated. The unfortunate few who had to be turned away had waited all that time for nothing. I know hospitaleiros are hardworking volunteers, good well-meaning people doing their bit for the Camino, but I must admit I was disappointed with the lack of efficiency and consideration at this particular place. While we had been waiting outside two of the hospitaleiros had arrived by car with some shopping and were let in by a third one, so they knew (and commented) about the queue and could see what the weather was like.

I saw a few old friends there, including Jan from England and John from Australia as well as the Brazilian couple I'd consulted about the way after Leon. After a rest and my chores I went for a communal afternoon tea in the dining room, the only albergue which offered this treat. Then it was shopping, an evening meal, a chat round the fire and an early night which thankfully was undisturbed this time.