Day 26 - Molinaseca to Cacabelos - 25km

As I was leaving next morning I saw that one of the German lads had slept outside the church where there was a row of bunk beds down the side to take any overflow of pilgrims. These were without mattresses and he was sound asleep in his bag on a foam mat on the stone floor. I'd chatted briefly to him and his friend the previous evening when he shown me the face he had carved on his wooden walking stick. I didn't envy him sleeping outside, it must have been very cold.

The 6km to Ponferrada went through villages and suburbs, with not a single cafe or bar open so I was more than ready for some food and coffee when I reached town. There was a bar with outside tables in a square near the beautiful Castillo de los Templarios, a Crusader castle, and while I sat there enjoying my breakfast more and more friends and familiar faces turned up. Leaving there was a long tramp through suburbs at first, not particularly interesting and a bit difficult to find the way. I was grateful for the occasional glimpse of other pilgrims to make sure I was on the right track.

It was another cold, windy day and I was feeling tired from my exertions of yesterday so I was going fairly slowly. My left foot was also painful from the strain of coming down over all those loose rocks hour after hour. I hadn't twisted or sprained it and was hoping it would get better quickly. The pain was in a strange place, on top of my foot, what I think is called the bridge - the bit under the laces, anyway! After eventually leaving the suburbs there were a couple of villages and then a nice stretch through some vineyards before arriving in Cacabelos, where I was disappointed to see the albergue was once again right through and out the other side of town. I actually found it in the end by following the two German lads.

This albergue had a strange motel-style layout. Accommodation was in twin bedded rooms like cubicles, running around a central area where there were tables and benches covered by a roof but not enclosed. There were showers but no kitchen. I initially had a room to myself but was joined by a Canadian girl shortly after. I showered and did some washing although I knew it wouldn't dry properly even hanging under shelter as it was still raining and damp. Whenever my washing didn't dry properly I carried it sealed in a ziplock bag to the next albergue and hung it up again. By then it would usually dry well enough hanging over the end of my bunk.

Later I managed to check my e-mails and was relieved to find my father was recovering from his health problems, so chores done I went into town to buy some food and some soothing gel for my foot. In the early stages of the Camino I'd noticed that the dorms at night positively reeked of liniment and embrocations as weary pilgrims massaged their tired legs and feet. I found the strong menthol smell very pleasant and was probably just looking for an excuse to buy some for myself. I didn't know what it was called but the chemist kindly let me smell some tubes until I found the right one!

Eating and drinking was forbidden in the rooms, but the only place to sit was at a table outside, exposed to the elements - and it was still raining - so I had a discreet picnic perched on my bed. My roommate went out and came back very late so I spent some time chatting to the two German lads who were in the next cubicle. It turned out one of them was a paramedic ambulance driver, which taught me not to judge people by their appearance - I'd taken them for a pair of carefree students out walking for a lark.