Day 20 - Calzadilla to Mansilla de las Mulas - 25km

The track to Mansilla was once again the Roman Via Trajana, 25km of rough stony path through the meseta with no shelter, shade, food or water. After having some fruit for breakfast I left early, at 6:30, without seeing the hoverer from the night before. Despite my early start I was the last but one to leave, the last pilgrim being a cyclist. The day started out nice and cool and misty but soon started warming up. After the cyclist overtook me I knew there was no-one behind me for a long, long way. This is useful to know when you may have to pay a quick visit behind a very low bush!

I had a second breakfast of water and chocolate biscuits sitting on the edge of a field which for some unknown reason made me think of English farmworkers resting from their labours during the second World War. I have absolutely no idea where this thought came from, I wasn't even born then. Afterwards I made good time until about halfway. By then I was beginning to find the stones underfoot rather tiring and my back was beginning to hurt so I started taking short frequent breaks although there wasn't really anywhere to sit. At one place, near a level crossing, there were slightly raised banks by a stream which gave me somewhere to perch while I had a snack. My meal was accompanied by a froggy chorus which started up every time I kept still for a few minutes. The frogs appeared to be all around me in the rushes as well as in the stream but they were very difficult to spot.

The heat had built up by now, so the last thing I wanted was to lose my way, but the yellow arrows and signs became very confusing further on. There were temporary cardboard signs pointing in completely the wrong direction saying 'alternative route' then shortly more signs saying the same thing but pointing somewhere else and none of them agreed with my map. Since the path carried on I thought I would too instead of trying these other routes, and see what happened. Then ahead of me I spotted a couple hesitating by the path. When I drew close I could see they had paused before a very deep and very wide ditch cut into the ground at right angles to the path. The ditch disappeared into the distance in both directions and far away I could see some men and earth-moving equipment. The couple decided to scramble across the ditch, throwing their rucksacks down before them. The earth sides were almost vertical and four or more metres deep and even if I could get down I didn't think I'd make it up the other side, apart from the fact that it didn't really make sense. The hundreds of pilgrims passing that way were surely not taking such a risk.

I decided to consult the men in the distance and reluctantly trudged off towards them, feeling increasingly annoyed and frustrated as I felt sure I was adding on more kilometres to an already long and tiring walk. Eventually I reached them and found out it was the end of the ditch, which was actually a new irrigation channel under construction. I felt dwarfed by the massive vehicles but managed to call up to one of the men and ask where the Camino was. He casually waved in the general direction of a dirt road. I wasn't sure he'd understood my question but I followed his instructions and set off again. I also wasn't sure whether I was now heading towards Mansilla, as I intended, or Reliegos on an alternative Camino but it didn't really matter so long as I arrived somewhere.

Far ahead of me I saw the couple again, on a path which joined my dirt road, so we were all going the same way which was reassuring. Then followed a very tiring hot walk along a road which appeared to be never-ending. All I wanted to do was sit and rest, but with nowhere to stop and no shade I had to just keep going. After what must have been a couple of hours I was on the outskirts of what turned out to be Mansilla, my original destination. There was an upmarket hotel by the roadside and regardless of appearances I plonked myself down on the kerb in their carpark where there was some shade. I then proceeded to consume everything edible in my pack and to drink all my water. After recovering somewhat I walked into town and found the albergue, where the elderly hospitaleiro insisted on carrying my rucksack up to my dorm for me, a real gentleman. Despite arriving later than most I still managed to get a bottom bunk, again.

I dumped my stuff and went out to get something to drink and saw Gunter and Annette sitting outside a bar. I went to join them and after one look at my face Gunter rushed to get me some wine and tapas which he kindly treated me to. Both they and other people I spoke to had all had the same problem finding their way around the earthworks which bisected the path. I hope the signs are improved soon as it is no joke getting lost in an isolated spot at the end of a long day. Still, all's well that ends well. I went and had a couple of hours snooze and found I was aching all over when I woke up, but after a nice shower I sat chatting to Lisa whom I ran across in the delightful courtyard of the albergue where the walls are covered with geraniums, and afterwards went for an excellent pilgrim meal.